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A Spring Full of Adventure - You've barely had time to catch
your breath from the thrill of our last issue and here comes
another newsletter from those crazy folks who quit their jobs and
took off across the country to go fishing.
When we left off, we had pulled out of the White River in North
Central Arkansas and were headed back towards Central Texas for a
quick stopover before taking off for Alaska.
April is a bit early to rush up through Canada and into Alaska.
So, we had a little time to work with before the long haul north.
We managed to fill that time with lots of new adventures. We just
can't wait to share them with you.
Mountain Fork, Oklahoma Our path from North Central Arkansas to
Central Texas took us through Southern Oklahoma. We've heard about
the Mountain Fork River tailrace below Broken Bow Reservoir.
They've done the same thing with this river that we hope will
happen on the Guadalupe River. They have built a quality trout
fishery by using a combination of trout stockings and special
fishing regulations. We thought we could learn a lot from a visit
to the Mountain Fork and that we might just have a good time while
we were at it.
We were pleasantly surprised to find this lush, hilly landscape in
Southern Oklahoma. Ferns and lichens covered the wet rocky
hillsides that line the river. The campground was nicely shaded by
large pine trees. The campground was well maintained and offered
us a site right along the river. It was just a short walk to fish.
Just like we like it.
One of the most special memories of our visit to the Mountain Fork
was the new friends we made. We were joined for a couple of days
on the stream by Dallas based outdoor writer Mark Williams and his
wife Amy. Together we fished, shared stories and just had a good
time together.
In addition to the many small but beautiful rainbow trout we
played with during our days on the river, the Mountain Fork
yielded one special treat on our first day. Fishing had been
pretty slow most of the day when Jeff spotted a large fish working
in a pool just below a nice drop in the river. As we watched the
fish feed regularly just below the surface, Jeff rigged a small
bead head hares ear nymph. The fish picked up on the first drift.
When netted several minutes later the fish turned out to be a 21"
brown trout. The photos of this fish turned out to be spectacular.
Watch for them in our slide show next fall.
Welcome to our New Readers - The last couple of issues
have gone out to more and more new readers. If your one, by now
you're probably wondering "who the heck are these people and why
are they sending me this crap?" Well, think hard. We probably met
you along the way somewhere, knew you once or your name and
address has been carved into some rock out here in the great
outdoors. In any event, you made the list. Hope you enjoy it.
A Salute to Left Handers Many of you received our "Special
Left Handed Edition" last month. We felt that, as a matter of
equal rights, left handers should have things done their way once
in a while.
Actually, this is just one of the many challenges of publishing
this newsletter on the road. We print the master on our notebook
computer and bubble-jet printer which are powered by our solar
cells. Then we see if we can find somebody to copy it for us. Last
month we drove into Moab, Utah for our printing. We picked up the
finished copy as we started a 300 mile drive north. Soon we
discovered the copy shop had gotten some pages out of order.
By then we were really in the middle of nowhere. So, making do
with what we had, we discovered we could fold and assemble a
newsletter that was exactly backward. Works perfect for lefties.
Albuquerque Stopover We have written frequently about all
of the family we have in Albuquerque, New Mexico. Our drive from
Texas to Utah in April provided us yet another opportunity to stop
and visit.
Barry and BJ Shelton fixed us a nice dinner and engaged us in
pleasant conversation one evening. We're sure sorry that we missed
the 10 year renewal of the marriage vows a couple of weeks later.
Ron and Laurel Shelton, along with Cyndie's youngest brother Rick,
joined us for drinks and hors d'oeuvres at Gardunos Restaurant, where
Rick's girlfriend Bobbie is head bartender. You can bet the drinks
were good that night.
Dan, Chapel, Sarah and Kristen Schmitt, had Sunday brunch with us
at YesterDaves. After checking out the car museum next door, we
went back to the house to be worn out and amused by our Sarah.
We cherish our time with our family. Seeing family more often was
one of the main objectives of our two year break. But, we still
find ourselves saying, "I wish we could see them more often", as
we drive out of town on the road to new adventures. It seems like
every place we like to visit can be arrived at via Albuquerque, so
we'll be back.
Learning to Live on the
River Most of our
lives these days are spent in, on, or around water -- usually
rivers. Our custom fishing raft has opened up many new waters to
us and has taken us onto many of our countries biggest and most
majestic rivers. To tell you the truth, there is probably not
anything we like better in life than spending the day floating
down one of these great rivers, taking in the scenery, feeling the
rhythm of the river and maybe catching a few fish.
But, in order to get to many of the places we want to fish or see,
you have to forge the power of the river. You must cross her
rapids. Along with this comes danger and risk. Like everything
else we have learned to do well in life, we felt we should be
trained to deal with these risks. After some research we found
just the perfect course to get this training.
The Canyonlands Field Institute (CFI) in Moab, Utah, is located
near the confluence of two of our countries greatest rivers, the
Colorado and the Green. CFI's mission is to educate the
participants in its' programs on the issues facing the Colorado
Plateau region by exposing people to the environment through a
variety of activities. In our case, they offered a River Skills
course designed to teach people how to safely operate a raft on
big rivers.
River Skills I took us to Moab for a 3 day, 2 night, camp on the
river, participative float trip/course. On the first night we
reported to CFI's Professor Valley Field Camp, about 20 miles from
Moab, where we set our tent camp. That evening they taught us a
session on knot tying for river runners, fitted us in wetsuits and
briefed us on our river trip.
The next morning we awoke early to a hearty camp breakfast.
Morning classroom sessions included sessions on rowing, river
reading, river rescue and river safety skills. Then, it was off to
the nearby Fisher Towers section of the Colorado River where we
rigged and loaded 4 rafts for the 20 of us to use to float
downriver. After a detailed safety orientation, we each got an
opportunity to practice the rowing and river reading skills we had
been taught earlier in the day. By late in the afternoon we had
arrived at a nice sandy beach which would be our camp for the
night. Here they taught us how to set a camp, how to build a camp
kitchen, how to patch a boat and even the ecologically correct way
to poop on a river trip. Soon, the group was around a campfire
sharing stories of adventures past and of those only dreamed of.
Dreams are easy to come by under skies full of stars in the
wilderness and we all slept well in our tents that evening.
Sunday morning Michele Reaume, our trip leader, had us up early.
Breakfast was served quickly as we had a lot to do today. Camp was
broken and the rafts were loaded down with our gear. Before we
left camp, we were briefed on a variety of river rescue techniques
that we would need later in the day. As we floated down the
Colorado, oars and guides went overboard for us to retrieve and
rescue. By lunch, we were all thrown into the river to swim the
rapids while our classmates practiced rescuing us with ropes.
Swimming in the rapids of a big, cold river is not something you
look forward to doing. But, we didn't want the first time to be in
some kind of emergency. All in all, it was a good experience that
will hopefully never need be drawn upon.
By Sunday evening we were to the takeout. Gear was broken down and
loaded onto the truck for the drive back to the CFI camp. In 3
short days 20 of us had become a team, working together towards
common goals. New friendships had formed. Some time was spent
saying goodbye and promising to keep in touch. (We've done our
part so let's hear from some of you guys)
The best part of this course was that it was so participative.
Unlike many of the guided river trips we had taken in the past, we
did the work that made this trip come together. We rigged and
rowed the boats. We set the camps and worked the kitchens. We
pulled our new friends from the raging river currents. Our course
instructors and the 3 professional guides that assisted her were
there to insure our safety and share with us their wealth of
knowledge about the river.
We always tell people we're not into whitewater rafting but that
we raft on whitewater to the extent necessary to get where we want
to fish. Rafting has added a new dimension to our adventure and is
an exciting way to experience a river. We plan to continue our
conservative approach to boating on big rivers but it will be with
more confidence in our abilities that we visit them.
River Skills I has just wet our appetite for river safety
knowledge. We plan to return to Moab in May for River Skills II.
Stay tuned for our report in our next issue.
Moab Sights
We went to Moab for the River Skills course but got much more than
we expected.
Moab is a haven for the outdoor enthusiast. Perhaps most famous
for its mountain biking terrain, it is also a favorite amongst
rock climbers, hikers, hang gliders and just plain old sightseers.
With both Canyonlands and Arches National Park within an hours
drive of town, you have two incredible areas of geological
formations to enjoy in any way that you could want.
We spent a couple of days of our time in Moab doing some
sightseeing. As the name suggests, Arches National Park is noted
for the wind carved sandstone arch structures that dominate the
landscape of the park. Canyonlands National Park takes you to the
top of the Colorado Plateau to overlook several tiers of canyons
that make up the Colorado and Green River valleys. The colors and
textures of the landscape are incredible here.
We took a short hike on a trail from the Grand View in Canyonlands
National Parks that took us out onto a point thousands of feet
above the canyon floor. You can't believe how quiet it was out
there. As the sun moved across the sky, the canyon scene changed
with the changing light. We took pictures, but they'll never
really live up to the beauty of seeing it in person.
There isn't much in the way of flyfishing opportunities in Moab.
But, it offers so many other things to those of us who love the
outdoors. Now that we have new friends in the area, we're sure
we'll be stopping in Moab whenever we're in the area.
Springtime in the Gorge
Last summer we told you about our first visit to the Green River
below Flaming Gorge dam. So, finding ourselves in Utah with a
couple of weeks to kill before our second River Skills course, it
is not surprising that the Green found a place in our spring
itinerary.
When we arrived on the Green River we were greeted by the weather
you have heard about in previous stories. First, the wind blew
with gusts up to 75 mph, then it snowed, then it got really cold.
Since we had lots of time to spend on the Green we wimped out and
let the weather slow us down a bit. We only fished one of the
first three days and that day we fought the wind all day. With a
lot of work we caught 4 nice rainbows that day and had a nice
preview float of the river canyon. But, we were hoping for more
pleasant days.
By the fourth day, the weather gods began to smile upon us. The
skies cleared, the winds calmed and the sun began to warm the air
between the shadows of the canyon walls. It was time for some
serious floating and fishing.
The Green is just such an ideal place for our setup. The
campground at Dripping Springs is located between the put-in and
take-out for an awesome day float. The river is perfect for our
boat. The rapids are challenging enough to be fun to run yet not
so big as to be real dangerous. There are services in the area
just set up to support floating the river. The scenery in the
river canyon and the pleasure of the float insure you a fun
experience whether you catch fish or not. And, since there are a
lot of fish here you always see fish swimming around the boat and
in the eddies. We almost always get the bonus of catching a few
fish and sometimes the thrill of catching a lot.
Our trip to the Green included 5 one-day floats of the "A" section
and one, two-day "float and camp on the river" trip where we
floated from the dam to Browns Park. Rowdy, our golden retriever,
went along for all of the floats. The overnight trip was our first
self-outfitted float and camping trip with our boat and was a
dress rehearsal for what we plan to do in Alaska.
The Green is quickly becoming one of our favorite places to visit.
We're planning a stop through again this fall, as we return from
Alaska.
Dinosaur Droppings Ahead
The area around the Flaming Gorge in Northeast Utah contains some
of the most interesting geological features in the world.
Uplifting and erosion have resulted in the exposure of almost
every layer of the earths history in one small area. In several
areas the layer that has come out on top happens to be one that
was around when the dinosaurs roamed the earth.
Saturday April 27 was Cyndie's birthday. The weather was cold and
the winds were blowing at over 25 mph. Somehow floating the Green
River that day just didn't seem like a good time, particularly
since we still had over a week more in this area. Instead, we
decided we'd take a 50 mile drive over to Dinosaur National
Monument, east of Vernal, Utah. Cyndie had visited Dinosaur with
her family as a child, so it brought back good memories to her for
her birthday..
Dinosaur National Monument is basically miles of desert land
surrounding a big building built right up against the side of a
hill. The exposed face of this hill, which forms one wall of the
building, contains hundreds of dinosaur bones that have been
partially exposed by an active digging project going on in the
building. The building has been set up to allow visitors to view
this dig site and the incredible display of dinosaur remains. A
couple of skeletons of large dinosaurs are nearly complete.
Informational displays explain the process going on at the dig
site and assist visitors with identifying the exposed remains.
After checking out all of these dinosaurs and realizing we were in
the heart of their domain, we were feeling particularly
adventuresome. So, we decided to take the "back way" back to our
camp in Dutch John. This involved a 40 mile gravel road section
followed by about 10 miles of steep, 4 wheel drive road. It also
involved a couple of those most dreaded backroad experiences. The
road forks into two gravel paths, both of which go off into the
mountain horizon. The map shows no fork and the road isn't marked.
You make a guess and go on faith.
In spite of this, the drive was magnificent. First we crossed the
desert plateau above the Green River and then we descended into
Crouse Canyon, which was basically a narrow, 200 foot deep crack
in the red rock just wide enough for a creek and a pair of dirt
ruts that a map we had generously labeled as a road. We
successfully navigated the "road" to within a half a mile of the
cutoff to our campground when we came across a large tree that the
high winds had blown across the road. At 18" in diameter and about
40 feet long it was too big for our winch and too tall for even
the ground clearance we have in our truck. We were stuck.
We had to back up the "road" for about one-half mile to find a
place wider than the truck to turn around again. A two hour drive
back through the road we had already driven got us back to within
a few miles of where we had already been.
Today, as I sit and write this story at our camp, it is snowing
big white flakes. It has snowed most all day and our solar panels
are struggling to find enough sunlight to run our lights, heater
and keep the power up on this laptop computer. The scene outside
the trailer window is beautiful. In fact, I think I see a dinosaur
rustling around in the trees over there. Think I'll run out and
help Rowdy check it out.
Grand Canyon, After the
Flood If you watched the
news at all towards the end of March, you could not help but see
the story about the "controlled flood" event that took place this
spring in the Grand Canyon. This man-made flood event touched us
personally in several ways so we had a special interest in
checking out the results. So, a visit to Lees Ferry, at the mouth
of the Grand Canyon in northeastern Arizona, was in order.
Basically what took place in the Grand Canyon is that they tried
to simulate on the Colorado River below Glen Canyon Dam what used
to take place before the dam was built. In the springtime, the
rush of runoff from the snowmelt from the western slope of the
Rocky Mountains ran into the Colorado River and flooded a lot of
habitat. The floods also moved a lot of sandbars in the river
around. The construction of the dam changed this pattern. As a
result, some native fish species that had evolved over many
millions of years to this natural flooding cycle on the Colorado
River, were becoming endangered. We got a good look at this
perspective on the flood during our float trips with Canyonlands
Field Institute (CFI) on Colorado River. CFI 's mission is to
educate people on issues effecting this region. They provided
well-informed seminars on the flood and the plight of the
endangered fishes.
Another perspective on the flooding of the Colorado River below
Glen Canyon Dam came from our friends, Terry and Wendy Gunn, who
own and operate Lees Ferry Anglers. Once Glen Canyon Dam was
built, the waters directly below it were fundamentally changed
forever. What were once warm, silty waters way downstream of the
cold mountain runoff were now cold, clear releases from the bottom
of a deep reservoir. Native fishes were completely displaced by
this cold water. To compensate for the loss of these native fishes
in the productive ecosystem that is still exists, trout fisheries
were created. Trout now fill the role previously taken by the
native suckers and chubs. In fact, in the Lees Ferry area of the
Colorado River a world class trout fishery has been built. This
fishery has become a treasured resource by many people, including
us. People in this area have built their lives around the trout
fishery at Lees Ferry.
The flood in the Grand Canyon this spring has some potential
downsides to the trout fishery. There are fears of how this high
flows will effect the trout spawning in the river. There are also
concerns about what recurrent floods will do to the insect and
invertebrate life on the river, which are a vital part of the
trout's food. At minimum, this flood cost the people who depend on
this sport fishery for their living. They were directly effected
this spring. News of the huge floods and life threatening
conditions resulted in many people not visiting and fishing at
Lees Ferry this spring.
Which leads us to another way in which this incredible
environmental experiment directly touched our lives this spring.
You may recall from a previous newsletter that we had an
opportunity to work for 3 months at Lees Ferry this spring. Jeff
was going to guide fisherman on walk-in trips into the Canyon and
Cyndie was going to work in the flyshop. The flood on the Colorado
this spring effected business at Lees Ferry Anglers such that they
were unable to get the business they needed to keep us busy and we
didn't get to work at Lees Ferry. We were disappointed to miss the
opportunity to see this perspective of the flyfishing industry.
As with many environmental issues, we find ourselves torn between
the two perspectives. Both positions have merit. We just can't
help but thinking, "can't we all just get along?". No matter which
perspective you take on the great Grand Canyon Flood of 1996 it is
an event that we will remember for a long time.
Adventures in Glen Canyon It was early May when we pulled
the trailer from our campsite on the Green River over to the
campground at Lees Ferry. Lees Ferry is located at the bottom of
Glen Canyon, below Lake Powell in Northern Arizona. It is called
Lees Ferry because there used to be a guy name Lee who ran a ferry
boat across the Colorado at this access point. The Ferry ran from
1860 until 1920, when it sank. When you look at this area from
above and at a distance you quickly see why this is an important
geographical point. Above and below this point steep canyon walls
crack the earth, making for impassable territory. But, at Lees
Ferry, the land slopes gently away from the river, making for
passable terrain on horseback, or in a wagon.
Lees Ferry is now known as the entrance into the Grand Canyon.
Raft expeditions, some lasting as long as 3 weeks, regularly
launch their boats at Lees Ferry. Once you push off at Lees Ferry,
it's over 200 miles to the top of Lake Mead, the next place you
can get our boat out of the Canyon. This makes Lees Ferry a0
center of activity for the Grand Canyon.
Lees Ferry and Glen Canyon are also known for the world class
trout fishery that has been created in the 17 miles of magnificent
canyon between the Dam and the Ferry access point. It is the trout
fishery, the incredible scenery and our friends, Terry and Wendy
Gunn, that drew us Lees Ferry this spring.
One thing about fishing at Lees Ferry is that we are guaranteed a
great experience, whether or not we manage to catch any fish. The
scenery is just so spectacular it is almost a shame to spend a
whole day looking at nothing but a small dry fly or strike
indicator floating on the water. With good friends like Terry and
Wendy to visit with, an enjoyable visit is guaranteed. Fishing is
just the catalyst for the friendship and the bond we all have with
this incredible environment. But, we did fish and I have to report
(or brag) on our success.
Lees Ferry is a 'can't be missed ' place to visit. Check it out
sometime.
Hiking Cathedral Wash The Grand Canyon is a formidable work
of Mother Nature. You basically walk for hundreds of miles across
a flat, desert terrain and then come to this several thousand foot
crack in the ground. When you walk to the rim and look over it is
unimaginable how you would ever get down to the river. But Mother
Nature has supplied you with a path.
Water and gravity are the path makers of the desert canyons. Water
falls rarely, but often violently, on the desert plains above the
canyon. These waters run off the sandy soils rapidly, gathering
themselves into areas called 'washes'. These washes start at
desert plateau level and angle their way down to the bottom of the
canyon and into the Colorado River. These washes are gateways into
the Grand Canyon.
Cathedral Wash is the first such pathway below the Lees Ferry
access point. This wash provides the hearty hiker a way to walk
right to the mouth of the Grand Canyon. Cyndie, Rowdy and I made
this day hike while we visited Lees Ferry. The alleged purpose of
the hike was to go fishing. But, the difficulty of the hike, the
majesty of the terrain and the intense heat overwhelmed our desire
to fish much.
The hike started as we walked off the bridge on the main road and
into an overgrown ditch. We followed the wash bed downward as the
walls around us began to rise. Soon the descent became a bit more
treacherous. It became difficult to decide where the path really
was. The sun beat down on us and we quickly realized that this
hike would have better been done at 7:00 AM, not 1:00 PM. After
about 45 minutes, we came to a sign that says "Entering Grand
Canyon National Park" and amongst other things "No Dogs." Well,
Rowdy had been in this adventure with us up to this point and we
were convinced we must be getting pretty close to the bottom of
the canyon. Sign or no sign, we were not turning back now, Rowdy
included. We decided to move on down just to see the river and
then we would get out quickly. Then the real fun started.
Around the next bend we followed the wash bottom to the top of
what is, on the rainy occasions, a 25 foot waterfall. Now, the
rock climbing began. Imprints of footsteps in the sand lead us to
several places where the jump down was manageable. We handed Rowdy
down the descents that he was too smart to jump off on his own. We
weaved our way along the canyon walls that were now looming above
us. Another 45 minutes of rock climbing, ledge walking and duck
walking under overhangs was invested while the sun cooked down to
us.
Then, we rounded the bend and began to hear it. Next, we saw it
sparkling at the end of the wash canyon -- the clear, cold waters
of the Colorado River. We stumbled down to the end of the wash and
onto the sand beach it had created. Rowdy was the first to jump
into the 45 degree water, but we were not far behind. It was cold
but so refreshing What a contrast to the heat our sunbaked skin
was feeling.
As we cooled, fished and swam a group of rafts floated past us and
deeper into the mouth of the Grand Canyon. We watched as huge
motor-powered rafts, hauling the gear for several small oar-rafts,
blasted through the waves. Many of the rafts are no bigger or
river-worthy than ours. The people running them looked no
different than us. They crashed into the first rapid of the
canyon, whooping and hollering, there eyes filled with the
anticipation of things that lie ahead. We have to do it. The bug
for a float thru this marvel of nature has caught us.
Soon we began to let our intimidation of the walk out terminate
our time at the river. We begin the walk back up the wash and out
of the heat. The walk back up is actually easier, partly because
we know what we have ahead of us and partly because it is often
easier to climb up than jump down in rough terrain.
By early evening we were out of the wash and back to the truck.
The falling sun lit up the canyon walls and formed a majestic
backdrop to our drive back to camp. We are sunbaked and even Rowdy
is sore from the climbing. What an adventure.
Drifting thru Glen Canyon Our trip to Lees Ferry included an
adventure not experienced by many people. Access to the canyon is
usually only possible by hiring a guide with a jet boat to take
you upstream into the canyon from the Lees Ferry access point.
However, we were able to make arrangements to have our cataraft
moved 15 miles up the canyon, where we took the next 3 days to
float, fish and camp our way down the canyon.
Experiencing the canyon from our raft was an awesome experience.
The quiet of a drifting raft, as opposed to the noise of a jet
boat engine, created an atmosphere that is unbeatable. Our small
raft was dwarfed by the magnitude of the huge canyon walls we
floated under. Camping on the river also provides a glimpse of the
canyon that few people experience. As the heat of the day fades to
a cool evening, even the dark of night cannot obscure the shadows
of the canyon walls that loom over you.
A particularly memorable and humbling experience was the
opportunity to hear the sound of rocks crashing off the canyon
walls. Even though this happened nowhere near where we were
camped, it sounded like it happened right above us. In fact, it
awoke us from our sleep and I promptly jumped out of my sleeping
bag and went out to pull clothes off of our line, thinking I had
just heard a close lightening strike. As the fog of a deep sleep
cleared from my mind, I realized I was outside preparing for rain
under clear, starry skies. It was later we learned that we had
heard a rock fall.
Fishing during our 3 day float was on and off. We caught fish each
day but one particular morning was the most memorable. On Sunday
morning, the water was low and Jeff was stripping streamers, one
of his favorite ways to fish. The fish were into it that morning.
In 3 hours we landed about 25 fish and had hit or follows from
twice that many more. That morning was one of the best days of
fishing we had ever experienced. After lunch, we quit fishing and
spent the rest of the day appreciating where we were.
It was late on Sunday evening when we floated out of the mouth of
Glen Canyon and to our take out at the Lee's Ferry boat ramp.
Sunbaked, tired and dirty, we loaded up the boat and headed back
to the relative comforts of our trailer camp. Another adventure
not soon to be forgotten.
Sharing the Canyon with Dad We were joined at Lees Ferry by
Jeff's parents, Pete and Rosemary Schmitt. of Bartlesville,
Oklahoma. Our friend and local guide Terry Gunn took Jeff, Cyndie
and Pete up into the canyon in his jet boat for a one day fishing
and sightseeing trip. Terry taught Pete how to flyfish and he was
fortunate to land 3 nice rainbow trout as a reward for his
learning. We also took time to visit the site of some ancient
Indian ruins and petroglyphs. Quality time, for sure.
In the
Oarstrokes of John Wesley Powell
Each of the places we have visited out west this spring (Flaming
Gorge, Lee's Ferry and Moab) have one common thread that connects
them. They are all part of the river and canyon system that was
originally explored and mapped by John Wesley Powell. Powell was a
civil war hero who lost one arm in the war. In 1869 he convinced
the government to sponsor his expedition to track the mighty
rivers and map the grand canyons of the west. This was a journey
unlike anything undertaken before. They took small wood boats onto
the rivers and floated into uncharted territory, not knowing what
would lie around any bend.
Cyndie has taken quite an interest in the history of this journey
and the areas we have been visiting. She has been reading the
published notes that Powell made on each day of his journey on
these rivers. As we have floated the sections of the river that
Powell visited, she reads his notes and compares them with what we
see today. We are able to identify places on the river the he
camped from the descriptions in these notes. A hundred years ago
much of this area looks just like it does today. And, hundreds of
years from now it will probably still look the same. The rivers
and canyons remain the same. Only the boatman have changed.
Our Thoughts are with you Rick
We like to be upbeat in our newsletter and try to share with you
the positive aspects of our experiences. But some things happen in
our lives that are so important that they too must be shared, even
if they aren't good news.
Last month, Cyndie's youngest brother, Rick Shelton, was the
victim of a mistaken identity shooting in Albuquerque. Both legs
were hit. After two weeks in the hospital, extensive surgery and a
skin graft, Rick is making steady progress. Owing to Rick's
determination and the support and care of Bobbie, his girlfriend,
Rick was well enough to return to his first love within a month.
On crutches, he played his guitar and sang at a local night spot.
Hopefully, he will soon be able to return to his job at Digital as
an electronics technician.
The incident was like something you see on TV movies. On April
20th, Rick and Bobbie were on their way to visit friends. A guy in
the neighborhood saw their silver truck and mistook them for a guy
he had a fight with earlier that evening. He brought out an AK-47
automatic and, even though Rick raised his hands to show he had no
weapon, he began firing. Thirteen bullets hit the truck. One
bullet hit Rick's left calf and shrapnel broke his right ankle.
The back window was shattered and a bullet pierced the headrest.
With Rick bleeding and unable to drive, Bobbie shifted into the
driver's seat and rushed Rick to medical attention. The man has
been charged with attempted murder.
Rick and Bobbie share our love of camping and exploring the
wilderness. We both wish Rick a speedy and complete recovery and
look forward to the time when he and Bobbie are able to join us on
the road for a campout, as they did last summer in Taylor Park,
Colorado.
Opportunity Lost We have written several times about our
work with Trout Unlimited in Texas and our dreams of establishing
a quality trout fishery on the Guadalupe River. We changed our
spring itinerary and drove 600 miles back to Texas so that we
could put our full efforts into supporting a proposed change in
the fishing regulations on the Guadalupe River. Texas Parks and
Wildlife had proposed a limit on the number of trout that could be
taken per day and restricting bait fishing. A hearing was
scheduled on April 16 in New Braunfels at which time the proposed
regulations were open to public comment. It was this hearing that
we returned to Central Texas to attend and to rally the membership
of Trout Unlimited to turn out to show their support.
It is with great disappointment that we report that our efforts
have failed. A small group of local residents turned out at this
hearing and managed to make much more noise than our TU membership
could counter. They made this into a private property rights issue
and convinced TP&W that their rights to fish for catfish with
worms off their docks were more important that the right of
thousands of Texans to have one quality trout fishery on the only
section of water in the state capable of supporting such a
fishery. Never mind that TP&W studies showed that there were
virtually no catfish to fish for with worms in this section of the
river.
The bottom line is TP&W withdrew its' recommendations for changes
to the fishing regulation. A great opportunity has been lost in
Texas.
Cyndie's Wildlife
Sightings Report
Otters were seen on the Colorado River near Moab, a rare sighting
in this section of the river.
A raven chased an eagle across the sky as it protected its nest
along the banks of the Colorado River.
Deer were the brush and along the roads around Dutch John, Utah.
A variety of camouflaged lizards were seen along the trails in Canyonlands National Park.
An elephant was spotted along the highway in West Texas. Well,
actually, there was an elephant in the back of a semi-trailer
stopped at a rest stop.
Canadian Geese are headed back north. Many have passed over us,
emitting their distinctive call, while we have camped and fished
in Utah this spring.
Merganser Ducks, pairing up for the mating season, were prevalent
on the Green and Colorado rivers.
A White Faced Ibis is an uncommon sighting but we saw quite a few
along the banks of the Colorado River in Glen Canyon.
"Lizards, snakes and scorpions, Oh my!" is what Dorothy would have
chanted had she headed thru the desert on her way to OZ. Saw many
of the first and spent lots of time avoiding the last two while we
hiked in these arid climates.
And finally, it's always something. If it's not a chipmunk, it's a
rabbit or a lizard. There's always them pesky little creatures
that are just out of leash range and know it. They seem to be
there to tease Rowdy at most every campsite. He acts like he hates
it but we think he loves it.
Campground Recap
When we left off in our April newsletter we were at Beavers Bend
State Park in Southern Oklahoma. Here's where we've stayed since
then :
Mockingbird Hill RV Park, Burleson, TX - After recovering
from a flat tire earlier in the day, we pulled into here for an
overnight stop over on our way back to Austin.
Our Own Backyard, Austin, TX - We needed a place where we
could access a phone for a couple of days while we mounted a phone
campaign for Trout Unlimited. Our backyard works well for living
in.
River Valley Campground, Sattler, TX - This has become our
home when we're on the Guadalupe River. We stayed here for a
couple of days before the Parks and Wildlife hearing in New
Braunfels. We fished one day with friends Alan Bray and Scott
Graham.
Mission RV Park, El Paso, TX - After a 600 mile haul from
San Antonio, which featured yet another flat tire, we pulled up
for some sleep. The wind blew in El Paso that night.
KOA Central, Albuquerque, NM - Spent 3 nights while we
visited family. Of the 3 places we've camped in Albuquerque, we
like this one the best.
American RV, west of Albuquerque, NM - We pulled out west
of town to get clear of traffic before we headed out the next day.
Canyonlands Camp Park, Moab, Utah - A real nice, quiet,
campground in the center of Moab that served as our base camp for
the River Skills course.
Professor Valley Field Camp, outside of Moab, Utah A
majestic site on the Colorado Plateau under the LaSalle mountains.
Canyonland Field Institute uses the camp to educate program
participants on the ecology of this area. We tent camped here on
the first night off the River Skills course.
Primitive Campsite along the Colorado River in Central Utah
- One night of tent camping off the rafts with the River Skills
students and instructors.
Dina Campground, Vernal, Utah - The pull into the Flaming
Gorge is steep and difficult to drive, so we stopped short of our
final destination to get rested up for the final drive in.
Dripping Springs Campground, Dutch John, Utah - Our second
visit to site #16 at this campground on the Green River in the
Flaming Gorge. Out trailer spent 10 days here while we floated,
fished and tent camped on the Green.
Sand Campsite, on the Green River We had to float into this
site and spent the night tent camping next to the river. You can
sure get a good nights sleep with the river sounds setting up the
background.
Bryce Canyon KOA, Panguich, UT - A stop over camp for one
night on the way between Dutch John and Lees Ferry. Unfortunately,
our schedule did not allow us to spend enough time in this
beautiful area.
Lees Ferry Campground, Marble Canyon, Arizona - We had a
site in this campground that looked right into the mouth of the
Grand Canyon when you looked one way, up into Glen Canyon the
other way and onto the Vermillion Cliffs behind us. The sight of
sunrise on the cliffs in early morning and sunset on the canyon
walls in the evening are beyond description in words. We can only
hope the photos will do this justice.
Backcountry campsite at 14 mile and 9 mile in Glen Canyon -
Tent camping under the canyon walls while on a float through the
canyon.
Canyonlands Campground, Moab, UT - Back to Moab for the
second river skills course and back to the campground we stayed at
last month.
A Look into the Future of the Dynamic Duo
(and their faithful pup, Rowdy)
By the time you get our next issue we'll be in Alaska. We have many new
adventures planned for our visit to the north country. Stay tuned for :
-
Our return to Moab, Utah,
for River Skills II.
-
The grueling details of the
2,500 mile pull from Moab to Anchorage.
Stories of sights we have seen and adventures we have undertaken on our
drive through Montana, Alberta, British Columbia and the Yukon.
-
A 7 day fly-in, float out
on the Kakatlin River. Rowdy's going along for the ride on this one.
-
Salmon fishing on the big
rivers of Alaska.
-
Driving to the Arctic Ocean
on the Dalton Highway.
-
Our friend Bill Choate
joins us in Anchorage for a drive to and tour of Denali National Park. By
the way Bill, bring some longies.
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Contents :
River Skills
Canyons
and Arches
Flaming Gorge
Dinosaur Sightings
Grand Canyon
Drifting
thru History
Wildlife
Sightings
Campground Recap
Coming Attractions
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